UP NORTH AND ON THE ROAD AGAIN

I’m going to come right out and admit it. I’m a fair weather camper. So it was pretty hard for the West Coast – one of NZ’s most consistently miserable regions – to win me over. In the end I have to concede there is some real beauty there and a “sweet-as” laid back charm. However, growing up means that maybe it is time to recognise what you like and what you want to avoid…and I think until the West Coast can guarantee me some consecutive warm sunny days I’ll be exploring this region via the less expensive and infinitely more comfortable google image search.

In fact, while we are in confession mode, I’ve also got to come right out and say I just love Queenstown. I really didn’t want to like it. Being just the sort of town we were trying to avoid – you know, getting off the tourist track and all that – the fact is that Queenstown is popular because it is really, really cool. It’s got (and in this order) the best burgers I’ve ever had (I’ve had a few and even have a couple of burger-related Championship Titles to my name so I know what I’m talking about), favourable weather, a ridiculous number of amazing activities on offer, and some breathtaking scenery. Maybe living out of a van for too long makes you appreciate the more material things in life and take for granted the simple pleasures??

Enough philosophising. Back to recounting the adventures.

After being there to witness NZ’s collective sigh of relief to hold off the French in a gripping RWC Final, and getting involved in a few post-match celebrations, we decided to head up to Northland, or in kiwi speak “up North”. It seems that there is a bit of conflict as to exactly where the “Real North” starts, as this questionable reason for glory is boasted by multiple (otherwise unimpressive) towns heading up State Highway 1.

Now if there is such a thing as a great place to get your van bogged in some very soft sand, let me recommend Rangipura Beach. It might not seem like a good candidate (very remote, no sign of people around and an extremely long way from the nearest AA vehicle) but as far as helpful locals go…and in our case a flagged-down car full of local maori boys with huge muscles, a makeshift tow rope, and a big dose of kiwi ingenuity…this place has got you covered. Thirty minutes of heaving and wheel spinning later our local heroes had us back on the road, with the only battle scars a couple of very-large-shoulder-shaped dents in the back of the van. Dents that later on DP wondered (to his mistake out loud rather than quietly to himself) whether they were caused by him pushing or by the team of front row forwards who saved us… those of you who know us well will know how much fun I had with that one…

Back to being a mainstream tourist, and we cannot recommend highly enough the jet ski tour of the Bay of Islands. Having decided to go there, and only AFTERWARDS reading the lonely planet entry for this place we were convinced to go out on the water since “otherwise, this place is quite overrated”. Of the smorgasboard of options available, jet skiing took DPs eye. I was hesitant, keen to avoid a repeat of the incidents that seem to come about whenever I am left at the helm of a small motorized vehicle (4-wheel motorbiking flip on Bethels Beach, being pinned under a snowmobile in a ditch in Niseko, accidental beaching of a jet-ski itself at Whangapoua of all places, and multiple 2-wheel motorbike issues in Vietnam and Thailand…). In the end we decided the trip would be more fun for everyone if DP did the driving with me on the back, and when only metres out of the 5-knot zone our guide took off at 100kmph we both breathed a sigh of relief at this sensible decision.

Ripping around the Bay of Islands on a jet ski has got to be the coolest way to see that part of the world and we were completely buzzed afterward. We also made it all the way up to the very tip of NZ where two seas crash wildly into each other, watched dolphins from inside our van as we camped on the beach, and generally enjoyed this rugged bit of paradise.

Since our forays up North and around our hiking adventures, we’ve also managed a few thousand pretty unforgettable kilometres as we’ve explored like crazy over the last few weeks. Some memorable moments include:

• Navigating a sheep-imposed traffic jam on a major state highway…and a cute-as-a-button farmer trying to control them, complete with very ripped, very revealing ruggers (ladies, see below)
• Marvelling at the stunning Franz Joseph and Fox Glacial region, wild seas and whitebait fritters on the West Coast
• Being exposed to the ruggedness of the very bottom of the South Island, complete with 120km/ hour winds, which it turns out is less than comfortable when sleeping inside a van
• Enjoying the incredible Central Otago colours and remoteness as we cycled our way down the old rail trail
• Jumping into 11 degree water at Akaroa, but it being totally worth it to get up close and amongst the darling little (1.2m long fully grown!) Hectors dolphins
• Realising that if banking doesn’t work out for DP, he’d make a fine career out of long haul truck driving, with us covering off 10,000 km in the last few months! 

Love,

Mr and Mrs P

Some stunning Southland scenery

The Moeraki boulders

The sheep were less bothered by the wind than us

Rugged Otago views between Wanaka and Queenstown

By the looks of these trees, the winds we experienced aren't uncommon

See, I told you Queenstown was beautiful

A central Otago pub along the old rail trail

Nice lawn (from an expert) at one of our favourite Central Otago wineries

Not a single West Coast service station open after 4pm...nearly rolled into Franz Joseph!

Nice scenery at Franz Joseph glacier

One of the world's best (and wettest) road trips - West Coast of NZ

Check out those legs...I mean sheep!!

Piha was much cooler than I remember it

Cape Reinga - right at the top of NZ

We saw dolphins from this position! Not a bad view for $20!

Don't worry, it wasn't turned on while I posed for this!